What is the difference between AHA and BHA?

AHA (glycolic, lactic acid) is water-soluble and works on the skin surface. Best for dry or sun-damaged skin. BHA (salicylic acid) is fat-soluble and can penetrate pores — best for oily and acne-prone skin. Many peels combine both.

Can I use glycolic acid at home?

Yes, but in low concentration (5-10%) for maintenance. Clinical peels with 30-70% glycolic acid should never be done at home — risk of burns, scarring, and infection. Home products give gradual results; clinical peels give transformative results across a course.

How long should I wait after a glycolic peel before another treatment?

Wait at least 2 weeks before injectables like filler or botox. For deeper peels, wait 4 weeks. Treatments like Profhilo or Sculptra that need a perfect skin barrier should wait until all flaking has settled.

Can I get glycolic acid during pregnancy?

Low-concentration glycolic acid (under 10%) is considered safe during pregnancy. Clinical peels with higher concentrations are avoided as skin permeability increases and hormonal changes can cause unpredictable reactions including melasma.

Glycolic Acid: glossary | Dibélle

Also known as: AHA, alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found naturally in sugarcane and grapes. With molecular weight of 76 dalton it is the smallest AHA acid and has therefore the highest skin penetration. Concentrations from 5 to 70 percent are used in aesthetic medicine, from home care to clinical peels.

How it works in treatment

Glycolic acid dissolves the corneodesmosome bonds that hold dead skin cells in place. The skin's outermost layer flakes off in a controlled way. At the same time it triggers keratinocyte turnover, collagen production, and dermal hydration. The effect is stronger at lower pH and higher concentration.

Where it is used

At Dibélle, glycolic acid features in several chemical peels for dull skin tone, fine lines, post-acne pigmentation, and pore structure. The standard protocol is a course of 4-6 sessions spaced 2-3 weeks apart. Home care with 5-10% glycolic acid maintains results between clinical treatments.

Results and safety

Results often show as skin glow after the first treatment. Structural improvements develop over 6-8 weeks. Sun protection is mandatory — glycolic acid raises UV sensitivity for 1-2 weeks after treatment. Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV-VI) should be treated cautiously due to PIH risk (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).

Common questions about Glycolic Acid

What is the difference between AHA and BHA?: AHA (glycolic, lactic acid) is water-soluble and works on the skin surface. Best for dry or sun-damaged skin. BHA (salicylic acid) is fat-soluble and can penetrate pores — best for oily and acne-prone skin. Many peels combine both.
Can I use glycolic acid at home?: Yes, but in low concentration (5-10%) for maintenance. Clinical peels with 30-70% glycolic acid should never be done at home — risk of burns, scarring, and infection. Home products give gradual results; clinical peels give transformative results across a course.
How long should I wait after a glycolic peel before another treatment?: Wait at least 2 weeks before injectables like filler or botox. For deeper peels, wait 4 weeks. Treatments like Profhilo or Sculptra that need a perfect skin barrier should wait until all flaking has settled.
Can I get glycolic acid during pregnancy?: Low-concentration glycolic acid (under 10%) is considered safe during pregnancy. Clinical peels with higher concentrations are avoided as skin permeability increases and hormonal changes can cause unpredictable reactions including melasma.